What has charging actually cost me?
The dashboard shows the last charge. The bill shows the year. This is what sits between them.
One thing off the bill each month
MonthlyOne appliance a month worth measuring or changing, and what it does to the yearly total. No tariff pitches, no prices — the numbers that stay true.
Free to use — Pro is for keeping it
This tool, like every other one here, is free and needs no account. A free account keeps three setups and three email alerts. Pro takes the ads off every site we run and lifts that to 200 setups and 50 alerts, adds a public page for any result and lets you embed the tool without our badge.
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How this works
What a charge costs where
The same energy at the prices people actually meet, per 10 kWh added.
| Where | Price per kWh | 10 kWh costs |
|---|---|---|
| Home, overnight EV rate | $0.08 | $0.80 |
| Home, standard rate | $0.17 | $1.70 |
| Workplace charger | $0.20 | $2.00 |
| Public AC destination | $0.30 | $3.00 |
| Public DC rapid | $0.45 | $4.50 |
Home overnight against public rapid is a factor of four or five. Over a year of commuting that is the difference between a utility bill and a car payment.
Frequently asked questions
Should I log energy added or energy off the meter?
For home charging, the meter figure is higher than what reaches the battery — typically eight to fifteen percent more. Logging what you paid for is the honest basis, so use the charger or meter reading rather than the car dashboard where you can.
Does this replace the charging cost calculator?
No, it complements it. The calculator answers what the next charge will cost; the log answers what a year of them actually did. Both are useful, and they should roughly agree.
How do I work out cost per mile?
Divide the total by the miles driven over the same period. Doing it from a log rather than a single charge averages out cold weather, motorway driving and the occasional rapid charge — which is what makes the figure comparable with a petrol car.